Low & Slow is the Way to Go

What's the difference between roasting and baking?The example I am going to use is typical of high
Many Aussies would tell you there's none at all. Wetemperature Mediterranean cookery and it works
call roasts 'baked dinners'. But for the purpose of thisequally well in the oven or on the barbecue.
article we are going to separate the two."Butterfly of lamb" is simply a leg of lamb from which
Roasting is done in the presence of fat, baking is not.the bone has been removed. You can either do this
It's that simple.yourself (it's not as difficult as it may seem) or get
So, potatoes cooked in the oven using fat are 'roast'your butcher to do it for you.
potatoes. Cooked dry in their skins they becomeThe first thing to do is to lay the meat skin side down
baked potatoes.on a flat surface and open it out. Sprinkle the meat
This is a useful way to separate the two systems andfairly liberally with soy sauce and add some rosemary,
one we'll stick to, if that's all right with you? :0)thyme, crushed garlic, a bay leaf or two and some
Roastingsliced onion. Fold the meat over the herbs and place it
Despite plenty of evidence to the contrary, I still seeupside down in a bowl.
recipes that insist you should cook meat at highUpside down means skin side up, okay? Who cares! It
temperature for the first twenty minutes or so - toreally doesn't matter that much.
'seal' it - and then lower the level for the rest of theMarinade the joint overnight in the refrigerator, having
cooking time.added half a cup each of soy sauce and red wine.
This is the traditional way. Fortunately for my guests,Oven cooking
like the great Galloping Gourmet Graham Kerr, I'm notPreheat the oven to 230° C.
a traditionalist. Let's put this myth to bed once and forThis may seem like an incredibly high temperature but
all.the outside of your meat is protected by two things -
Cooking meat at high temperature, whether in thethe liquid it has been marinated in and the fat on its
oven, on the barbecue or in a pan does not seal it!surface, which you are going to sprinkle fairly liberally
It burns it. That's why it goes brown. And it introduceswith salt.
extra flavor, because the outside of the meatThis is one occasion when you simply must cook your
generally has a covering of fat. Fat is what gives meatmeat directly on the rungs of the oven, fat side up, and
it's unique flavor.you will cook it at this temperature for about 20
Adding this crust to the outside of the meat will alsominutes. Then, you will be relieved to hear, you can
slow down the cooking of the rest of the joint, andreduce the temperature to a mere 200° C.
help to keep it rare.This next bit is important, and you have to trust me.
Think. Do you really want to do this with chicken, forRoast your meat for exactly eight minutes per pound
example?and no longer. Allow it to relax for around 15 minutes
No of course not. Chicken in particular needs to beand then carve and serve.
thoroughly cooked and high temperature roasting willOn the barbecue
not help that process.This is where I really test your nerve and the faith your
Basting, on the other hand, will.guests may or may not have in you.
Basting is simply taking the juices from the bottom ofThe first thing to ensure is that your barbecue is ready
the pan and pouring them back over the cooking meatand at full temperature. Incidentally, I'm talking about a
from time to time. By doing this, and cooking at thegenuine charcoal barbecue, not the gas or electric
right temperature, you will produce far more succulentvariety which you can use in exactly the same way
results. Browning will still take place, but gently, as partas the oven.
of a process.Now place the meat fat side down directly over the
Using a roasting tinheat. After a few seconds it will burst into flames and
It's not a good idea to cook meat inside a roasting tin.you will have a heart seizure. Go with the flow. This
A much better way is to place the joint directly on thereally is meant to happen.
rungs of the oven with the roasting tin underneath it. InResist all temptation to interfere. Just let the flames die
this way, you can pack vegetables in the roasting tindown and then turn the meat over and leave it to
and they will cook nicely in the juices from the meat.cook for a further 10 minutes.
If you don't like that idea, because it means you haveWhen you remove the meat from the barbecue it will
to clean the rungs after use, put the meat on top of alook more like a piece of charcoal than the succulent,
rack in or on the roasting tin instead. You don't need tohighly flavored lamb that it really is. In fact, it will look like
buy a special tin for this, simply use a cake rack ora total disaster.
something similar. I have even used two or threeIgnore the sympathetic murmurs from your guests.
kebab skewers and rested the joint on those.Carve into the lamb and listen to and enjoy their gasps
However the advantage of cooking directly on theof astonishment when they see the perfect meat
rungs is that the air circulates freely round the joint,inside the salty crust.
ensuring even cooking, and you can remove theThere is no more delicious way to serve lamb and you
roasting tin to make your gravy while leaving the meatwill have created an authentic Mediterranean flavor
where it is. Of course, if you do that, you will want tothat is just perfect for those balmy summer nights. All it
put some kind of drip tray under the joint, but anytakes is nerve (and maybe a couple of beers or
ovenproof dish will do for that.glasses of wine!).
Temperatures and cooking timesAdd a really crisp, well-dressed salad and a mountain
Using my method (actually it's Graham Kerr's methodof frites to complete the feast.
which I've adopted but what the heck) you don't needWaddya mean ya don't know what frites are?
to learn a lot of complicated temperature/timeThey're the real French fries/chips. They're what
formulas. Cook your red meat at 350F, 180c, gas markRonald pretends to serve. They are so versatile just
4.thinking about them brings tears to my eyes.
Cook poultry at 325F, 160c, gas mark 3.I buy mine from Birds Eye, but that's just a sentimental
Calculate your cooking time as 30 minutes for everything (my family once farmed peas). Any skinny chip
500 grams of meat. This will produce thoroughlythat you deep fry from frozen will probably do the
cooked poultry, beef that is well cooked on the outsidetrick.
and rare inside, pink lamb and pork (yes you can safelyYou could also serve rice or fettucini or any other
eat 'underdone' pork, providing the internal temperaturepasta of your choice. The main thing will be the meat -
reaches 160C for a period of at least 10 minutes!)just don't expect to have any leftovers!
If you want to change anything - alter your cookingThermometers
times accordingly but beware. There is a very thin lineWhile most underdone meat, except poultry, is safe to
between meat that is well done and boot leather. Ifeat, it's important not to be too cavalier about it,
rare meat is more than you can handle, it's a muchparticularly if the joint has been boned.
better idea to use my cooking times but then turn theThat's because bacteria that were not originally there
oven off and leave the meat in it for a further 30may have been introduced into the meat on the tip of
minutes or so.the butcher's knife.
Which brings me to one more point; it's very importantFortunately these will die at temperatures of around
to let the meat stand for at least 20 minutes before160C, and the best way to ensure your meat reaches
carving.that for a prolonged period is by using a meat
Why? Because when you heat protein (which is whatthermometer, especially one that can be left in place
meat is) it shrinks and toughens. Allowing it to relax andduring cooking.
cool a little restores some of its elasticity. Just keep it inA good thermometer will also allow you to accurately
a warm place with a sheet of cooking foil over the topjudge cooking times, because it will come equipped
while you prepare the greens and gravy.with a table which shows you how well the meat is
Exceptionsdone at any given temperature.
What would rules be without them?