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Low & Slow is the Way to Go

What's the difference between roasting What would rules be without them?
and baking? Many Aussies would tell you The example I am going to use is typical
there's none at all. We call roasts of high temperature Mediterranean cookery
'baked dinners'. But for the purpose of and it works equally well in the oven or
this article we are going to separate the on the barbecue.
two. "Butterfly of lamb" is simply a leg of
Roasting is done in the presence of fat, lamb from which the bone has been
baking is not. It's that simple. removed. You can either do this yourself
So, potatoes cooked in the oven using fat (it's not as difficult as it may seem) or
are 'roast' potatoes. Cooked dry in their get your butcher to do it for you.
skins they become baked potatoes. The first thing to do is to lay the meat
This is a useful way to separate the two skin side down on a flat surface and open
systems and one we'll stick to, if that's it out. Sprinkle the meat fairly
all right with you? :0) liberally with soy sauce and add some
Roasting rosemary, thyme, crushed garlic, a bay
Despite plenty of evidence to the leaf or two and some sliced onion. Fold
contrary, I still see recipes that insist the meat over the herbs and place it
you should cook meat at high temperature upside down in a bowl.
for the first twenty minutes or so - to Upside down means skin side up, okay? Who
'seal' it - and then lower the level for cares! It really doesn't matter that
the rest of the cooking time. much.
This is the traditional way. Fortunately Marinade the joint overnight in the
for my guests, like the great Galloping refrigerator, having added half a cup
Gourmet Graham Kerr, I'm not a each of soy sauce and red wine.
traditionalist. Let's put this myth to Oven cooking
bed once and for all. Preheat the oven to 230° C.
Cooking meat at high temperature, whether This may seem like an incredibly high
in the oven, on the barbecue or in a pan temperature but the outside of your meat
does not seal it! is protected by two things - the liquid
It burns it. That's why it goes brown. it has been marinated in and the fat on
And it introduces extra flavor, because its surface, which you are going to
the outside of the meat generally has a sprinkle fairly liberally with salt.
covering of fat. Fat is what gives meat This is one occasion when you simply must
it's unique flavor. cook your meat directly on the rungs of
Adding this crust to the outside of the the oven, fat side up, and you will cook
meat will also slow down the cooking of it at this temperature for about 20
the rest of the joint, and help to keep minutes. Then, you will be relieved to
it rare. hear, you can reduce the temperature to a
Think. Do you really want to do this with mere 200° C.
chicken, for example? This next bit is important, and you have
No of course not. Chicken in particular to trust me. Roast your meat for exactly
needs to be thoroughly cooked and high eight minutes per pound and no longer.
temperature roasting will not help that Allow it to relax for around 15 minutes
process. and then carve and serve.
Basting, on the other hand, will. On the barbecue
Basting is simply taking the juices from This is where I really test your nerve
the bottom of the pan and pouring them and the faith your guests may or may not
back over the cooking meat from time to have in you.
time. By doing this, and cooking at the The first thing to ensure is that your
right temperature, you will produce far barbecue is ready and at full
more succulent results. Browning will temperature. Incidentally, I'm talking
still take place, but gently, as part of about a genuine charcoal barbecue, not
a process. the gas or electric variety which you can
Using a roasting tin use in exactly the same way as the oven.
It's not a good idea to cook meat inside Now place the meat fat side down directly
a roasting tin. A much better way is to over the heat. After a few seconds it
place the joint directly on the rungs of will burst into flames and you will have
the oven with the roasting tin underneath a heart seizure. Go with the flow. This
it. In this way, you can pack vegetables really is meant to happen.
in the roasting tin and they will cook Resist all temptation to interfere. Just
nicely in the juices from the meat. let the flames die down and then turn the
If you don't like that idea, because it meat over and leave it to cook for a
means you have to clean the rungs after further 10 minutes.
use, put the meat on top of a rack in or When you remove the meat from the
on the roasting tin instead. You don't barbecue it will look more like a piece
need to buy a special tin for this, of charcoal than the succulent, highly
simply use a cake rack or something flavored lamb that it really is. In
similar. I have even used two or three fact, it will look like a total disaster.
kebab skewers and rested the joint on Ignore the sympathetic murmurs from your
those. guests. Carve into the lamb and listen
However the advantage of cooking directly to and enjoy their gasps of astonishment
on the rungs is that the air circulates when they see the perfect meat inside the
freely round the joint, ensuring even salty crust.
cooking, and you can remove the roasting There is no more delicious way to serve
tin to make your gravy while leaving the lamb and you will have created an
meat where it is. Of course, if you do authentic Mediterranean flavor that is
that, you will want to put some kind of just perfect for those balmy summer
drip tray under the joint, but any nights. All it takes is nerve (and maybe
ovenproof dish will do for that. a couple of beers or glasses of wine!).
Temperatures and cooking times Add a really crisp, well-dressed salad
Using my method (actually it's Graham and a mountain of frites to complete the
Kerr's method which I've adopted but what feast.
the heck) you don't need to learn a lot Waddya mean ya don't know what frites
of complicated temperature/time formulas. are? They're the real French fries/chips.
Cook your red meat at 350F, 180c, gas They're what Ronald pretends to serve.
mark 4. They are so versatile just thinking about
Cook poultry at 325F, 160c, gas mark 3. them brings tears to my eyes.
Calculate your cooking time as 30 minutes I buy mine from Birds Eye, but that's
for every 500 grams of meat. This will just a sentimental thing (my family once
produce thoroughly cooked poultry, beef farmed peas). Any skinny chip that you
that is well cooked on the outside and deep fry from frozen will probably do the
rare inside, pink lamb and pork (yes you trick.
can safely eat 'underdone' pork, You could also serve rice or fettucini or
providing the internal temperature any other pasta of your choice. The main
reaches 160C for a period of at least 10 thing will be the meat - just don't
minutes!) expect to have any leftovers!
If you want to change anything - alter Thermometers
your cooking times accordingly but While most underdone meat, except
beware. There is a very thin line between poultry, is safe to eat, it's important
meat that is well done and boot leather. not to be too cavalier about it,
If rare meat is more than you can handle, particularly if the joint has been boned.
it's a much better idea to use my cooking That's because bacteria that were not
times but then turn the oven off and originally there may have been introduced
leave the meat in it for a further 30 into the meat on the tip of the butcher's
minutes or so. knife.
Which brings me to one more point; it's Fortunately these will die at
very important to let the meat stand for temperatures of around 160C, and the best
at least 20 minutes before carving. way to ensure your meat reaches that for
Why? Because when you heat protein (which a prolonged period is by using a meat
is what meat is) it shrinks and toughens. thermometer, especially one that can be
Allowing it to relax and cool a little left in place during cooking.
restores some of its elasticity. Just A good thermometer will also allow you to
keep it in a warm place with a sheet of accurately judge cooking times, because
cooking foil over the top while you it will come equipped with a table which
prepare the greens and gravy. shows you how well the meat is done at
Exceptions any given temperature.




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