| Istanbul joins Europe to Asia. It is one of the most | | | | liquid yoghurt or a cherry juice called visne suyu. |
| exotic and exciting cities that you'll find anywhere. It | | | | We didn't eat at the hotel's dining room as we |
| has heaps of real tourist attractions, it is relatively safe | | | | preferred instead to try out a number of the many first |
| to travel around and if you apply yourself, it can be | | | | class restaurants that are located nearby. We enjoyed |
| remarkably inexpensive. | | | | the Haci Baba in Istikal Caddesi 49 (near Taksim |
| The city has the full range of tourist hotels that range | | | | square). This is an inexpensive, traditional Turkish |
| from the cheap bedsitters around the Sirkeci railway | | | | restaurant that serves over 40 main dishes and 25 |
| station and Taksim Square. Plan to arrive early to | | | | deserts. Ask the waiter to recommend what to order |
| check out any low cost accommodation standards | | | | and follow his advice. Almost all meals start with a |
| vary considerably. The best family run establishments | | | | meze which is a selection of appetizers. Having a |
| offer terrific value and after you've stayed a few | | | | group of 4-6 (or more) allows you to select a wider |
| days and you'll feel like one of the family. | | | | range of small dishes which include, among other |
| There are lots of three and four star boutique hotels | | | | things, a variety of dips, smoked fish liver, tiny |
| with a variety of oriental themes. At the top end you'll | | | | pastry-wrapped parcels of salted goats' cheese, meat |
| find the traditional Sheraton and Hiltons and in the | | | | filled artichoke hearts, spiced green beans in tomato |
| suburb of Beyoglu, the Ritz Carlton, the Marmara Pera, | | | | sauce, various yoghurt dishes, green peppers stuffed |
| Marmara Taksim, Ceylan Intercontinental and the Hyatt | | | | with tiny shrimps and herbed rice and several dishes |
| Regency. | | | | based upon eggplants. These are served with flat |
| Because we always look for something different, we'd | | | | Turkish bread. Yummy. |
| chosen to stay at the Pera Palace Hotel in Mesrutiyet | | | | Many days we just had the meze - it is a meal in itself. |
| Caddesi, 98. This is the last of the grand Victorian | | | | On hot days try the cold soup of yoghurt and rice with |
| hotels in the city. Built in 1892 for passengers travelling | | | | mint. Or after a day's hard walking, you might prefer a |
| from Paris, London and Vienna on the Orient Express, | | | | main course like lamb and eggplant stew, a stew of |
| the hotel stands out as one of the most luxurious | | | | sea bass filled with potatoes, carrots, tomatoes, onions |
| hotels of its era. It has an impressive list of guests that | | | | and garlic or a rice pilaf with eggplant and spiced |
| include: Agatha Christie, Alfred Hitchcock, Ernest | | | | ground beef. For dessert, we had to try one of the |
| Hemingway and lots of Hollywood star and real | | | | fruit based dishes, named, happily enough "Lady's |
| royalty. Agatha Christie wrote part of her famous | | | | Navel". Also available were "Beauty's Lips", |
| thriller Murder on the Orient Express while staying in | | | | "Nightingale's Sighs" and "The Sultan Smiled" The first |
| Room 411. The hotel's interior is like a living museum | | | | two are heavily sugar covered and the rest are |
| with its dark wood ceilings, its magnificent chandeliers, | | | | served with a potent fruit liqueur. Add a glass of Raki |
| Rococo elevator and marble that is found | | | | or a bottle of rapidly improving Turkish wines to |
| everywhere. The hotel has just about completed a | | | | provide the perfect complement to the food. Locally |
| major renovation and is set to re-open in April 2010. | | | | brewed, Efes Pilsen beer is also available. |
| The coffee shop, Le Patisseri, like the hotel itself is | | | | Look for local taverns called meybanes or try the |
| definitely of another century and the list of those who | | | | many inexpensive fish restaurants down near the |
| have sipped coffee or tea here includes such notables | | | | waterfront. They all offer a unique Turkish dining |
| as Kamil Ataturk, Mata Hari, Greta Garbo, the late | | | | experience. |
| Shah of Iran and an Albanian spy named Cicero. As | | | | There are a huge range of tourist attractions in wider |
| you find yourself sinking in to a pure Orient Express | | | | Istanbul. Use one of the excellent guide books to give |
| experience, the hotel is definitely worth staying in. | | | | you the detail or hire a local guide. The shortlist would |
| Even if you are not addicted to superb coffee, the | | | | include: Church of St Saviour in Chora, boat trip along |
| world's best teas (the coffee shop offers | | | | the Bosphorus, the Grand Bazaar, Topkapi Palace, |
| twenty-seven varieties), marzipan, kadayif and baklava | | | | Haghia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Suleymaniye |
| (filo pastry), chocolate filled croissants and the world's | | | | Mosque and the waterfront. Allow a half day each. |
| best Turkish Delight, make this a must for guests and | | | | However, no visit to Istanbul is complete without a visit |
| tourists alike. Ask about the teas, many of them are | | | | to a Turkish bath, called hamans. Try the Cagaloglu |
| served in a traditional style samovar, a heated teapot. | | | | Baths near the entrance to the Gulhane Park at |
| Turkish coffee can be very strong and is an acquired | | | | Seraglio Point. Some luxury hotels offer their own |
| taste. | | | | baths but ask about the authenticity of the experience. |
| Over lunch or dinner try a selection of Raki, a clear | | | | After 5 days in Istanbul with its fine dining, nightclubs, |
| anise-flavoured drink that turns cloudy when water is | | | | Raki and fine wines, wonderful sights and friendly |
| added. It is served in the Grand Orient Bar at the hotel | | | | people, we did indeed start to feel like a Sultan. And |
| or in restaurant throughout Istanbul and is usually | | | | you can too. Yes, Istanbul is indeed a Turkish delight. |
| offered with a variety of side-dishes. If you'd prefer | | | | The story of our travels in Turkey is described in the |
| something non-alcoholic try a glass of ayran, a salty | | | | book Following Marco Polo's Silk Road. |