Quaker Creek Store Goshen, NY 10924

Quaker Creek Storebrother, uncle, sisters andfather, along with a staff of
The bounty of the Black Dirt region can be seen in thevery competent employees.
richblack soil, the fields of crops and the culturalWord of the quality food available at Quaker Creek
character thatpre-dominates in the region. But upsoonspread and now customers travel from 65 miles
Pulaski Highway, bythe bridge that crosses Quakeraway tobuy from Bobby’s store.
Creek, some of the bounty ofSometimes the line of peoplewaiting to buy the
Pine Island is hidden behind a simple storefront, whereQuaker Creek lunchtime specials – allmade
thegrandson of a Polish settler is producing meats soin-house – spills out into the street.
fine thatcustomers come from far and wide. BehindIn recent years Bobby has installed the finest kitchen
the façade of theequipment available in theworld. Below the store the
Quaker Creek store, a young man is practicing the artgleaming Koch stainless steelsmokehouse, with a
ofcharcuterie – a culinary specialty that ismicroprocessor that controls heat, humidity, and
dying as thetimeintervals , has the capacity to work 24 hours a
American food market is dominated by massday. There is agiant metal food processor –
productionand an emphasis on prolonging shelf-life.with the capacity to mix 200pounds of meat
Robert “Bobby”– and a state of the art machine for
Mateszewski, 35, is making sausages, and smokedfillingsausage casings. The old tavern, next to the store,
andcured meats the old fashioned way –is currently beingconverted into a glistening,
using the finestingredients and home-mixed herbs andwhite-walled production kitchen where Bobby
spices – just as hisplanseventually to make fine terrines and pate. Bobby
Polish grandfather did before him. Through his trainingnever advertisedbecause, he says, he had all the
at thebusiness he needed. But severalweeks ago a
Culinary Institute of America (C.I.A.), Bobbyprominent newspaper article about his Pine Island store
learnedcenturies-old methods of charcuterie and hebrought somuch business that Bobby has barely
constantlyattends seminars to keep himself updatedcaught his breath. “But all these new
ondevelopments in the food smoking industry. He hascustomers couldn’t have come at a better
oneof the largest libraries of magazines and books ontime”, he smiles, because wehave poured a
thesmoking process outside the C.I.A..large amount of capital into our business”.
Bobby’s inspiration andmentor was hisBobby works every day of the week, rarely taking
grandfather, Stanley Sobkowiak, a Polishgarde mangerSunday off. Apart from all the varietiesof food he is
chef, who first came to the United States incuring or smoking at any one time, he makes a wide
1939 to cook at the World’s Fair. Strandedrange of sausages. He started out making Polish
here by theoutbreak of World War II, he got a job as asausages, but soon added arange of six Italian
chef at a hotel insausages. As requests came in, he added to his
Atlantic City. Seven years later he brought over hisrepertoire German, Portuguese, South African, North
daughterAfrica, and even Chinesesausages. His customers are
(Robert’s mother) and his Polish wife, Irene.people of the region who’ve discoveredthe
But Ireneyearned to be among people of her ownextraordinary quality of food available at Quaker
heritage. So theymoved to Pine Island, where StanleyCreek, and fine food experts from afar,
bought a grocerybusiness on Pulaski Highway.who’ve heard about him at dinner parties.
Sobkowiak wanted to starthis own fine diningThough he is amodest man, a little embarrassed about
establishment, but because of the economic times andthe attention he is getting, he is notshy about his
localtastes, his plans were inopportune. Instead,standards. “I use the best quality ingredients,
Sobkowiak ran a tavern andgeneral store, with anall available in this region. I get my herbs fresh from a
emphasis on home processed meats.grower right here in Pine Island, andmix all the
When Bobby was 19, his grandfather died and leftseasoning myself. And I apply the very highest
himthe business. Although Quaker Creek had evolvedstandards of hygiene.” “Like my
into a conveniencestore, Bobby went back to hisgrandfather, “ he says, “I am a
grandfather’s roots and beganto train togourmet.” He saysthe word with such pride,
become a garde manger – a specialtyone is reminded that a “gourmet” is
whichincludes canning, pickling and curing meat. Asnot just an adjective on a label, or a description of a
Bobby’s business grew hisgrandmother,selfanointed “foody”. It is one ofthe
Irene, lent him money to develop the meatprocessinghighest credentials in the culinary arts. “It is
side. She worked in the store until she died, agedironic “ he adds, with satisfaction ,
88, last year. But it’s still a family concern“but what I am doing is the fulfillment of my
– those helpinghim are his mother, wife,grandfather’sdream”.