Highly Personalised Chocolate?

I’ve encountered a lot of strange foods in my timeoccur during cooking. The techniques involved in
and most of them are somewhat disgusting;molecular gastronomy encourage the scientific use of
scrambled calf brains, jellied moose nose and thedifferent ingredients and cooking methods to invent
infamous casu marzu for example. Thesenew and interesting recipes, as well as making the
experiences, whilst life-enriching, have left mepublic aware of the truth about food and cooking.
somewhat dubious about new “interestingDuring the course of their scientific investigations into
recipes” – like a chocolate mixed with meat.cooking, the molecular gastronomists have proven that
However, despite my hesitation when I first heardyou don’t need to add salt to water when cooking
about dark Belgian chocolate mixed with chilli-spikedgreen vegetables, that searing meat does not seal in
pork fat; chocolate-meat combination foods havethe juices and that you don’t need to start with
started popping up all over the place! I’d tried andcold water when you make meat stock!
enjoyed veal with chocolate sauce; butAlthough using chemistry to study food dates back
bacon-chocolate, chocolate with pureed salami andwell into the 18th Century, the foundations of the
chocolate biscuits wrapped in crispy chicken skin werescience of molecular gastronomy could well be
a little bit outside the scope of my knowledge!attributed to Nicholas Kurti; Professor of Physics at
To pursue my interest, I headed along to the ParisOxford from 1967 to 1975. Host of the TV series "The
Chocolate show (as I am wont to do), where I had thePhysicist in the Kitchen", Kurti was the original TV chef
dubious delight of sampling truffles with peas andand was responsible for one of my all-time favourite
wasabi sauce! It wasn’t the best thing I had everquotations:
tasted, but it opened my mind to the new influences"I think it is a sad reflection on our civilization that while
we are seeing on the world of chocolate; I had neverwe can and do measure the temperature in the
had Japan down as being a nation to pride itself ofatmosphere of Venus we do not know what goes on
puddings - not after I heard about their basashi iceinside our soufflés"
cream anyway! It’s not like bizarre foodstuffsModern-day molecular gastronomist Dominique Duby
haven’t been fashionable for a while; bacon andjustifies the use of meat with sweet, claiming that the
egg ice cream was one of the things to make Theprotein can be used to give deserts a subtle
Fat Duck as famous as it is! After all, if sweet things“smoky, salty flavour” that conventional
like chocolate can be added to savoury dishes, whydesert-makers simply cannot create. Although I’m
shouldn’t savoury things like meat be perfectlynot convinced that either a smoky or a salty taste,
acceptable in desert dishes?however subtle, would add anything positive to my
The field to which we must all turn to for answers toafter dinner chocolate; I have enough respect for the
questions like these, is molecular gastronomy – thescience that I’m willing to give it a go!
study of the physical and chemical processes that