Cooking with Wild Game - Black Pepper and Juniper Venison Sauce

When cooking meats of any kind, there is no sauceloosen any browned bits. In my kitchen, I use to tell my
like a sauce made from the meat trimmings and boneschefs the pan should look, on the bottom, as if it had
of the animal itself. Here's one suggestion for a greatbeen washed. Add a little more water and allow to
venison sauce; use it with any roast or pan-roastedwork - listen for the crackle to die down to a gentle
venison, such as leg, rack or loin - the black pepperbubbling, then, as the water evaporates, the gelatin will
and juniper lends itself well to the caramelized flavor ofextract from the bones and it will begin to crackle
the roasted meat.again. Add ¾ cups of the light chicken stock
Yield: 1 cupand deglaze/reglaze as before. Add vegetables and
½ cup canola oilstir to deglaze/reglaze. Add remaining water, chicken
2 ¼ lbs. venison bones, chopped into 1" piecesstock, and veal stock. Deglaze fully and transfer to
(or, 2 lbs bones, ¼ pound meat trimmings)stock pot.
1 quarts waterBring to a simmer over medium heat, with pot offset
1 quarts light chicken stockto one side to set up a convection for skimming -
2 quarts veal demi-glace (best: make it yourself; morethroughout the process, you don't want to allow
than gourmet's ready made is not bad)accumulated scum and impurities to be reincorporated
½ lbs. carrots, cut into ½" piecesinto the sauce, so skim the surface regularly. Skim and
½ lbs. onions, ½"simmer for 30-45 minutes or until stock is at level of
5 ounces celery, cut into ½"bones. If you have a fine mesh sieve, first strain the
3 peppercorns, crushedsauce through a coarse strainer then through the fine
2 juniper berries, crushedmesh sieve. If not, a coarse sieve with a layer of
Heat canola oil over high heat in a heavy pan largecheesecloth will do. The important thing is to strain with
enough to hold bones in one layer, until just beforethe coarse strainer first, then pass through the fine
smoking. Add bones and cook until well-browned andstrainer. Pour strained stock into pot. Simmer until
caramelized - do not turn before a good crustreduced to sauce consistency. Last ten minutes of
develops, and once turning, do not stir bones. Youreduction, add your crushed peppercorns and juniper
want a good, deep, rich caramelizing layer. The lastberries, and reduce to 1 cups. Double strain again and
few minutes, add the meat trimming, if you are using it.serve.
You want a good russet color to the bones, not blackHunting can bring good food to the table. As a chef, I
- watch for this and discard any blackened bones.always sought to marry what I knew with what
Pour off fat from pan.hunters and farmers always knew - the best food
Add a little of your water, enough to deglaze the pan,comes from the season and the land one knows. I
reserving the rest for later. Using a wooden (ideally,hope you enjoy this recipe.
flat) spoon, scrape the bones free and scrape up and