| "body"> | | | | for 3 etc. Locals wash the crisps down with 'tinto con |
| So what is an evening out on the tapas trail in Leon | | | | butano' (red wine with fizzy orange) or Mahou on tap. |
| like? To begin with, like many aspects of Spanish life, | | | | After squeezing out of Flechazo, perhaps we'll head |
| the start of the evening tapas session is timed like a | | | | back to Plaza de San Martin for 'croquetas de jamon |
| military operation. Arrive in the 'Barrio Humedo' (wet | | | | atun' (ham or tuna potato croquettes) at Rebote or |
| district!), centred around the Plaza de San Martin, at | | | | slices of delicious pizza at La Competencia. Just |
| 7pm and it will be deserted; arrive at 8pm and you'll be | | | | across from there, we pop into a dark, atmospheric |
| lucky to squeeze in anywhere. | | | | bar for a real taste of old Leon - 'sopas de trucha' |
| So, we like to start a little earlier than most at one of | | | | (garlic soup with trout). Can't say this one's really to my |
| the first places to open, like El Gaucho, which | | | | taste, but I'm assured by more reliable sources that it's |
| specialises in a dish which is Leon through and through: | | | | exquisite. I'll opt for a little toast topped with goats |
| Jijas con Patatas (loose chorizo sausage meat, lightly | | | | cheese instead. |
| fried in olive oil and served with cubed and fried | | | | Now it's decision time. Do we continue doing the |
| potatoes). There's only two of us, so they throw the | | | | rounds of the bars, nibbling and drinking? If so, maybe |
| meat and potatoes together in a single dish and | | | | be we'll head off to the center of town and the Calle |
| present it to us with a little fork. | | | | Ancha for some of the best Jamon Serrano I've ever |
| It disappears in an instant along with the tiny beer it | | | | tasted. Or do we sit down for a proper dinner? |
| came with. Two Euros down and we're off next door | | | | Perhaps back at the Plaza where a tiny restaurant, |
| where the selection is 'chunks of tortilla' (Spanish | | | | the name of which escapes me, serves an incredibly |
| potato omelet), 'bollo preñado' (a little roll stuffed | | | | simple but delicious 'Ensalada Jabugo' (sliced tomatoes |
| with a little chorizo) and 'tigres' (mussels in their shell | | | | topped with finely sliced, top-quality Jabugo ham and |
| with a bechamel sauce and breadcrumb crust). | | | | garlic and dressed with a mouth watering olive oil and |
| By now its starting to get busy, so we'll head off round | | | | sherry vinegar combo). |
| the corner to 'Flechazo' - tiny and incredibly popular for | | | | Of course, this being Spain, you don't have to go and |
| its hand-fried crisps topped with spicy pimenton (also | | | | dance with teenagers if you fancy continuing after |
| superbly done by Bar Madrid in the 'Romantic District'). | | | | dinner. Many, many 'bares de copes' (bars that open |
| There's nothing else on offer here so the waiter just | | | | late into the night) will be happy to have you sipping |
| calls the orders to the kitchen by numbers: for 2, for 6, | | | | whisky or rum and coke until the first morning light. |